Narrow Endtable – Lighten Shelf Stain

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VASAGLE Lowell Narrow Side Table, Nightstand with Drawer, Shutter Door, End Table for Small Spaces, Bedroom, Industrial Style, Greige and Black ULET066B02

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How to lighten stain

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Wood stains come in various tints that can protect the wood and make its grain pop. If you choose to go lighter with your stain, you will want to know how to make dark stained wood lighter. If this is true for you, look no further.

In this post, I’ll share the three most effective ways on how to stain dark wood lighter or how to lighten wood stain.

But first, let’ start with a quick snippet answer for those who are in a hurry.

How to Lighten Stained Wood

To make dark wood lighter, wipe away any dust on the wood. Spread a thin coat of 2-part wood bleach solution across the wood surface and let it sit for 30 mins. After that, use a white vinegar solution to neutralize the wood bleach before wiping it clean with a wet cloth.

How to Lighten Wood Stain by Bleaching

Bleaching will require using chemicals that can produce potentially harmful fumes when lightening wood, so ensure you work in a well-ventilated area.

Tools And Materials to Make Dark Wood Lighter

Chemical wood finish stripper
Paint Scraper
Natural bristled paintbrush
Hand gloves
Safety goggles (3M Safety Glasses)
Wood bleach
Plastic bucket
Water
Hot water faucet
180-grit sandpaper
Tarp

How to lighten wood stain Step by Step

Step 1: Set Up Your Workstation

Assemble all the items you will need and wear your safety gear, including hand gloves and goggles. Then cover the floor or ground with a drop cloth. This will help collect any spills and the old finish that you will scrape off your workpiece.

Step 2: Apply the Chemical Stripper to the Dark Wood to Remove the Topcoat

Your wood furniture is likely to have a varnish or polyurethane finish on top of the stain layer. You want to remove this layer before bleaching the dark wood stain for the best results.

To do this, dip a natural bristled paintbrush into the chemical stripper and apply it onto the wood you are lightening. Ensure you create an even coat of the stripper on the surface, covering every inch where you intend to lighten.

Wondering what chemical stripper to use? Check out our Best paint remover to wood reviews.

Leave the chemical wood stripper on the surface for 20 minutes to set.

Step 3: Use a Plastic Scraper to Remove the Topcoat

Hold a plastic scraper at a 45-degree angle to the wood surface and run it gently along the wood grain to lift off the finish. We recommend using a plastic spatula and not a metallic one since the latter could scratch the wood surface.

Continue along the grain until all the old finish has come off. Then, pour some water on the wood to see if it has any lighter or darker spots. The idea is to get the wood evenly colored as confirmation that you have removed all the topcoats.

Step 4: Prepare Your Wood Bleach Solution by Mixing it

Mix your wood bleach with water in a plastic bucket as directed on the packaging. The packaging should have a label with instructions on mixing the wood bleach; follow them to the letter.

Alternatively, you could use oxalic acid for this purpose if you only want a mild treatment. Otherwise, ensure you have your gloves and safety goggle on when mixing the bleach.

Unlike oxalic acid, designated wood bleach is a powerful solution that will remove much of the color and lighten dark wood’s natural color.

In any case, you should be able to get any of these products in your local home improvement or hardware store.

Step 5: Apply the Wood Bleach onto the Wood Surface

Cover the entire surface of the wood with a thin coat of bleach using a natural bristled paintbrush. Once you cover every area you want to lighten, let it sit for approximately 30 minutes.

You can also use a mop to spread the bleach across the work surface to bleach a wooden floor.

Step 6: Use a White Vinegar Solution to Neutralize the Bleach

Once the 30 minutes have elapsed or after achieving the desired color, create a mixture of white vinegar and water in a bucket or large bowl in equal parts. After mixing well, dunk a clean cloth in the mixture, wring out the excess liquid, and use it to wipe the wood surface.

The vinegar solution will stop the bleach from reacting with the wood any further.

Step 7: Clean the Surface Thoroughly With a Clean, Damp Rag

Next, use another rag dampened with warm water to wipe the wood clean. Ensure you wipe every inch of the surface to remove all traces of bleach and vinegar. Then let it dry overnight.

If you are not happy with the wood color after drying, you can repeat the bleaching process once or twice more. Just don’t exceed three bleach treatments as this may dull the wood or cause it to grey.

Step 8: Sand Your Wood

The wood will be a bit coarse after this treatment. Sanding will help restore its smoothness and level the grain of the wood. In this case, 180-grit sandpaper should get the job done.

Here too, work along the grain to get the best results and sand until the surface is smooth to the touch.

Step 9: Refinish the Wood Surface

Now that you already stripped out the old protective finish, you will need to apply another one to restore the surface protection of your wood furniture.

We recommend a polyurethane finish for this purpose. Use a natural bristled brush to apply a thin coat of polyurethane finish on your wood.

Consider doing a quick once-over on the finished surface with the paintbrush in long strokes to even out the surface.

Caveat: Do not shake the polyurethane container as this could form air bubbles that might ruin your wood finish when you apply it.

How to Make Dark Stained Wood Lighter With Steel Wool

A more straightforward way on how to stain dark wood lighter is to use a ball of fine steel wool. These have the 000 grading for fine options or 0000 for super fine. You may use either grade.

Tools And Materials To Stain Dark Wood Lighter

Fine steel wool
Mineral spirits
Warm water faucet
Safety goggles
Protective hand gloves
Rags for applying stain

Steps To Lighten Dark Stained Wood Cabinets, Furniture and Beams

Start by wearing your safety goggles and protective hand gloves. Once that is done, follow these steps to make dark stained wood lighter with steel wool.

Step 1: Rub The Wood With The Steel Wool

Soak a ball of fine steel wool in warm water, wring out the excess, then lightly rub it against the wood. Be sure to keep the pressure even while rubbing along the wood grain to lighten the stain.

Step 2: Wipe the Wood With a Clean Rag Dampened in Mineral Spirits to Lift the Stain.

Soak a clean cloth with some mineral spirits and rub the wood with it along the grain. This should help lift the wood stain.

Observe how the color changes while you wipe. The area should slowly become lighter than the rest of the surface. You may have to wipe for several minutes to cover the entire stained surface. Also, you can use more rags if one gets too dirty.

Step 3: Switch Back to Rubbing with Steel Wool and Keep Alternating Between the Two.

Put aside the mineral spirits for a bit and continue rubbing with the steel wool. After that, switch back to the mineral spirits and a rag. Keep alternating between these two methods until you have achieved a lighter color that you are happy with.

Notice that the steel wool and mineral spirits may lighten the stain color slowly, so you may work for several minutes before getting the color you want.

Once you have managed to lighten the stain, wipe the wood using a clean cloth to remove all traces of the mineral spirits.

This method works best for getting a lighter color on oil-based stains than water-based stains.

How To Lighten Dark Wood Stain By Diluting It Before Applying

To avoid working backward, you can dilute a dark wood stain to lighten the color before applying it to the wood surface. This proactive approach can save you a lot of elbow grease.

List Of Supplies to Lighten Wood Stain

Natural wood stain
A standard stain of your choice
Natural bristled brush
A clean rag or two
A pair of hand gloves
Protective face mask

Steps To Lighten Dark Stained Wood Beams, Cabinets and Furniture

Follow these steps to lighten your stain before applying it.

Step 1: Assemble the Items You Will Need

Put together your standard and natural stains with the same base as the one you want to lighten.

Natural wood stains are clear-colored, so you can use them as thinners when mixed with other tinted options to create a lighter product.

Ensure that the two products are both either water-based or oil-based. They have to have the same base to be compatible.

Step 2: Mix Your Standard Stain and Natural Wood Stain in Equal Parts.

You can use a sealable metal container, or empty paint can mix these two. Pour the same amounts of each stain into the empty container and mix them well. We recommend using a paint stirrer to ensure the two are thoroughly mixed.

Read: How To Get Paint off Stained Wood

Step 3: Test Out Your New Wood Stain on a Scrap Piece of Wood.

You want to know if the color is what you were hoping for, so apply some of the new stain you have created on a piece of wood. Ensure the scrap piece has the same color or type as the piece of furniture where you want to use the lighter stain.

Dip your staining brush in the mixture and rub it into the scrap piece. Then wipe out the excess the same way you would wipe the actual piece of furniture, and let it stay overnight.

This should give you a sneak peek of how your furniture will look with this stain on.

Step 4: Add More Natural Stain to the Mixture If You Want a Lighter Color.

If you are not satisfied with the stain color yet, you can add more natural stain and stir thoroughly. Then test the stain on the scrap wood to see if you have got the color you want.

You may repeat this process until you achieve your desired stain color.

How to Lighten Wood Stain

To lighten the dark wood stain, mix equal amounts of the stain you intend to lighten and natural wood stain. To determine the hue of the stain, test it on a scrap piece of wood. Add more natural stain if you want the color to be lighter. If you still want to make it lighter, add 1⁄2 cup (120ml) of natural stain at a time and stir thoroughly with your stir stick until the mixture is uniform.

Here are Some Important Tips for DIY Enthusiasts

Now that you’ve known how to stain wood a lighter color, here are few tips to keep in mind.

# 1: Start by buying your standard stain and checking if it is oil-based or water-based. Then, proceed to look for a natural stain with the same base before buying.

# 2: Use mineral spirits to dilute oil-based stains if you cannot find the natural wood stain.

# 3: Use water to dilute water-based stains if you cannot find a natural wood stain.

FAQs on How to Lighten Stained Wood

Here are a few queries on how to make wood stain lighter.

Will Mineral Spirits Lighten Wood Stain

Yes, mineral spirits will lighten a dark stained wood without removing the stain entirely. For example, you can soak a clean cloth in mineral spirits or turpentine and rub it on a dark stained wood firmly along the grain to make wood lighter.

How Do You Remove Dark Stains From Wood Cabinets?

To remove dark stains from wood cabinets or furniture or your log cabin, wipe the stains with a rag soaked in a two-step wood bleach solution or liquid laundry bleach. You can also use oxalic acid mixed with water, which is more potent than laundry bleach for this purpose.

How To Lighten Dark Stained Wood Floors

To lighten dark stained wood floors, use a mop to apply and spread wood bleach on the floor where you want to lighten. Then use a white vinegar solution to neutralize the bleach, and clean the surface thoroughly with a clean damp rag.

Can You Stain Wood Lighter?

Yes, you stain dark wood to be lighter. But because lightening covers the wood’s grain and natural color, it’s unsuitable for fine woods. You will not lighten the color of a dark stain if you apply a light color of stain over it. Before lightening wood, strip down the existing stain on the dark wood using a petroleum-based solvent to completely alter the color and make it lighter before you can add a lighter colored stain.

Can you lighten stained wood

Yes, you can lighten dark wood for an interesting light-dark contrast. For fine stained woods, lighting is not advised. This is because the stain covers up the wood’s natural hue and grain; however, it might be useful as a last resort

How to lighten dark stain on wood

To lighten the dark stains on wood, you need a clean cloth or rag and mineral spirit or turpentine. Soak the cloth in a mineral spirit and carefully rub along the grain of the wood to lighten the stain. It will only lighten the stain on wood, but it won’t remove the stain.

How to Make Dark Stained Wood Lighter Summary

Learning how to lighten wood stain isn’t rocket science.

Always start the task of making your dark-stained wood lighter by stripping down the existing wood finish and dark stain using a petroleum-based solvent, then let the surface dry before sanding and refinishing it.

See the best wood for dark stain here.

What to Do Next?

Even if you took precautions like using gloves, you might still find that some stains got on you while you are lightening your wood. So, check out our guide on How To Get Wood Stain Off Skin

How to Use and Apply the Many Varieties of Solvents

A SOLVENT is a substance, usually liquid, that will dissolve another substance. All do-it-yourselfers buy and use a number of solvents. Some are used for cleaning, others to thin paint, shellac or varnish. Choosing the right solvent can make a job easier; using the wrong one can damage tools or a project.

Turpentine is one of the few solvents not made from petroleum distillates. It is produced by distilling the oleoresins from pine trees. It is also known as spirits of turpentine or simply turps. The best grade is called pure gum spirits of turpentine.

Turpentine has more solvency than mineral spirits. Care should be taken when using it to thin oil- or alkyd-based paints; otherwise the paint could be overthinned, which can cause it to run or drip. Even though turpentine is less toxic than petroleum-based solvents, it can still cause an allergic reaction.

Mineral spirits, also called ''white spirits'' (trade names include Varnolene and Texaco spirits), is a petroleum distillate specifically manufactured as a substitute for turpentine. Most painters prefer it as a paint thinner because it costs less, is not so sticky and has a less offensive odor than turpentine. Still, mineral spirits do have an odor that some people may find unpleasant. They may prefer to use odorless paint thinner.

Turpentine and mineral spirits are good brush cleaners, and turpentine can remove paint that has hardened slightly. Mineral spirits will dissolve only paint that is still fresh. Naphtha is a petroleum solvent similar to mineral spirits but with a greater volatility; it is used chiefly as a paint thinner or a cleaning agent. Naphtha is a more powerful solvent than mineral spirits, so less is needed to thin the same amount of paint. But it also makes paint dry faster and may make it hard to blend strokes or brush out drips.

Naphtha is highly flammable; when using it, work in a well-ventilated area — out-of-doors, if possible — and wear rubber gloves and a respiratory mask. It can quickly dissolve wax layers, but naphtha can also penetrate through the wax and seep under veneer. There it will dissolve the glue, causing the veneer to loosen.

Alcohol is sold in many forms: isopropyl, methyl, wood, ethyl and denatured alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol is the familiar rubbing alcohol and is formulated for external medicinal use. It is also useful for removing resinous stains on clothing and gummy tar residue on ashtrays.

Methyl alcohol is a dangerously toxic solvent not suitable for home use. It is also called wood alcohol or methanol. Pure ethyl alcohol, also called grain alcohol, ethanol and colonial spirits, is the basis for alcoholic beverages. For industrial and shop use, additives (like ethyl acetate, methanol and even gasoline) are added to ethyl alcohol, turning it into denatured alcohol.

Denatured alcohol is used for thinning shellac and cleaning brushes used to apply shellac. It can also be used to remove light pencil marks on wood.

Lacquer thinner is a blended mixture of two or more solvents. Acetone, amyl or ethyl acetate, keotone and toluene are common ingredients in lacquer thinners. Obviously, lacquer thinners are designed to thin lacquers and clean brushes and spray equipment used for lacquer finishing. But lacquer thinner is also an effective brush cleaner. It can soften and dissolve most paints even after they've hardened.

Acetone, common in lacquer thinner, is a useful solvent for anyone who works with plastics. It is effective in removing residue from plastic cements. It is the recommended thinner for polyester resins and fiberglass, and it is also useful for cleaning tools and equipment used for working with these materials.

Acetone and lacquer thinner are useful for removing paint and varnish stains on clothing made of natural fibers, but they will soften and dissolve many plastics and some synthetic fabrics. Do not use a nylon brush for applying these solvents because the acetone may attack the bristles. Both acetone and lacquer thinner are highly flammable, and both release toxic fumes, so avoid inhaling them for any length of time.

Methylene chloride is the principal ingredient in most paint removers and in heavy-duty brush cleaners. Sometimes it is combined with other ingredients and sold as ''graffiti remover.'' It is effective in removing all finishes, but it attacks and softens plastics. It can also be hard on skin, so wear rubber gloves.

How to Bleach Wooden Furniture

In most cases, bleaching is essentially a first-aid measure, not a routine part of refinishing. A piece of furniture should be bleached if the surface is marked by stains, black rings, or water spots; if the wood is discolored or blotchy; if the color is uneven; or if an old stain or filler is left after the finish is removed. Old filler is often a problem with oak, walnut, and mahogany. Bleaching can also be used to even the color of a piece of furniture made with two or more woods. It can lighten the darker wood to match the lighter one.

Before you use bleach on any piece of furniture, make sure the wood is suitable for bleaching. Some woods don't accept bleach well — cherry and satinwood, for instance, should never be bleached. Some woods, such as bass, cedar, chestnut, elm, redwood, and rosewood, are very difficult to bleach, and some — notably pine and poplar — are so light that bleaching makes them look lifeless. Birch, maple, and walnut can be bleached, but bleaching destroys their distinctive color. And the rare woods — mahogany, teak, and the other choice woods — seldom benefit from bleaching. Common woods that are easy to bleach, and may benefit from it, include ash, beech, gum, and oak.

Choosing a Bleach

Not all bleaching jobs call for the same type of bleach. Depending on the problem you want to correct, you may need a very strong bleaching agent or a relatively mild one. Below are some common bleach options you might want to consider.

Laundry Bleach: This mild bleach can solve most refinishing color problems, from stain or filler not removed in stripping to ink stains and water spots. It works well for blotchy areas and for slight overall lightening, but it won't change the color of the wood drastically. Before you use a stronger bleach on any piece of furniture, try laundry bleach; it usually does the trick.

Oxalic Acid: Oxalic acid, sold in powder or crystal form, is used to remove black water marks from wood. It is also effective in restoring chemically darkened wood to its natural color. You're not likely to encounter this problem unless you have a piece of furniture commercially stripped because lye and ammonia, the chemicals that discolor wood, are not recommended for nonprofessional use. Oxalic acid must be used on the entire surface of the wood, because in most cases it also bleaches out old stain. You may have to bleach the entire piece of furniture to get an even color. Oxalic acid is more effective in lightening open-grained wood than close-grained.

Two-Part Bleaches: The two-part commercial wood bleaches are used to lighten or remove the natural color of wood. If you want a dark old piece to fit in with a roomful of blond furniture, this is the bleach to use. Two-part bleach is very strong and must be used carefully; wear rubber gloves and safety goggles. This type of bleach is also expensive. Several brands are available.

Bleaching Techniques

Whatever bleach you use, remember that the results are permanent — you may be able to restain if you make the wood too light, but uneven bleaching is very hard to remedy. Make sure the wood is absolutely clean, and touch it as little as possible. The bleach must penetrate the wood evenly.

Before applying the bleach, test it on a scrap piece of the same wood or on a hidden part of the piece of furniture. Make sure you know exactly what the bleach will do and how fast. In general, bleaches act quickly on soft woods and slowly on hard woods.

Bleaching isn't difficult, but it does require some precautions — bleaches are fairly strong chemicals. The stronger ones can damage skin, eyes, and lungs. Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles when working with bleach, and make sure your working area is well ventilated. Follow the bleach manufacturer's instructions exactly. If you get bleach on your skin, wash it off immediately.

Bleaching also requires careful application and removal. With any bleach, use a synthetic-bristle brush — the chemicals will damage natural bristles. Apply the bleach along the grain of the wood, wetting the surface evenly and thoroughly; there should be no dry spots and no puddles. Let the bleach work as detailed below.

After bleaching, wipe the wood clean with a damp cloth. To remove any residue, neutralize the wood thoroughly; use an ammonia solution for oxalic acid, a borax solution for laundry bleach or two-part bleaches. Wash the bleached wood thoroughly with the appropriate neutralizer; be careful not to overwet it. Then, working quickly to prevent water damage, rinse the wood with clean water and dry it thoroughly with a soft cloth. Let the piece of furniture dry for at least two days before doing any further work on it.

Laundry Bleach

Apply laundry bleach full-strength, brushing it evenly over the entire surface. If you're removing spots or lightening discolored areas, apply bleach full-strength to those areas. Laundry bleach works quickly. After a minute or two, you should be able to see the stain fading. If you're bleaching out an old stain, wipe the bleach off with a damp cloth when the stain has lightened.

If you're spot-bleaching to remove spots or blend color areas, wait until the bleached spots are roughly the same color as the rest of the wood; then apply bleach again over the entire surface. Remove the bleach with a damp cloth when the color is even. Finally, neutralize the treated wood with a solution of 1 cup of borax dissolved in 1 quart of hot water. Neutralize, rinse with clean water, and dry it thoroughly.

Oxalic Acid

Oxalic acid is not caustic, but it is poisonous. Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles, and make sure ventilation is adequate. To prepare the acid, mix a saturated solution with warm water: 1 ounce of powder or crystals per 1 cup of warm water. Make sure you prepare enough bleach to treat the entire surface or piece of furniture.

Apply the acid solution evenly to the wood, brushing it on along the grain to cover the entire surface. On soft wood, you'll see results very quickly; on hard woods the bleaching takes longer. Let the acid work for about 20 minutes, then wipe it off with a damp cloth. If the surface isn't fully or evenly bleached, reapply the acid as necessary. On hard woods, complete bleaching may take up to an hour. Wipe the wood clean with a damp cloth, and wash it with clean water. Then neutralize it with a solution of 1 cup of household ammonia and 2 quarts of water. Rinse it again with clean water, and dry it thoroughly.

Two-Part Bleaches

Two-part bleach is easy to use, and usually works very quickly. The two components of the bleach — labeled "1" and "2" or "A" and "B" — are usually applied separately. Read the manufacturer's instructions and follow them exactly. The first solution is usually allowed to work for about 20 minutes before the second solution is applied.

Following the directions carefully, apply the first solution and let it work; then apply the second solution. One treatment usually bleaches the wood completely, but if the wood isn't light enough, treat it again. Wipe the bleached wood clean with a damp cloth, and then neutralize it with a solution of 1 cup of borax dissolved in 1 quart of hot water. Rinse the wood with clean water, and dry it thoroughly.

Post-Bleach Treatment

Treatment with any bleach raises the grain of the wood, even when the piece of furniture has already been thoroughly sanded. To prevent the raised grain from affecting the finish, it must be resanded to the level of the wood surface after the wood is dry.

After bleaching, let the piece of furniture dry for at least two days. Then sand the grain down lightly with grade 5/0 or 6/0 sandpaper; be careful not to roughen the surface. Because there may still be some chemical residue in the wood, wear a breathing mask and use a vacuum to remove sanding dust. Wipe the wood clean with a tack cloth.

One other complication of bleaching, especially with laundry bleach, is that the wood may be left with a whitish or grayish color. This is not serious; it indicates that the bleach has dried out the fibers of the wood surface. On hard woods, it disappears when the finish is applied. On soft woods, the gray color may be pronounced and the loose fibers obvious. To remove them, rub the wood firmly along the grain with No. 000 steel wool; rub the entire bleached area, and make sure the color is even. The grayish cast will disappear completely when the finish is applied.

You're almost ready to start staining your furniture, but there's one more crucial step. Before you can apply any sort of finish to wood, you have to prepare the surface by sanding it down. In the next section, you will learn all about sanding, including how to get into those tricky, tight spaces.

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Staining Techniques for Wood Furniture

Brush oil stain on with a clean brush, flowing it evenly along the grain of the wood to cover the entire surface.

Whatever type of stain you're using, the most important part of the process is getting the color you want. You may be able to buy stain in the color you want. If not, and if you have a sample of the stain color you want, take it to the paint store and have a color mixed to match. Experiment, mixing small amounts of stain and applying test batches to scrap wood, until you get the right color.

Although a wide range of stain colors is available, you can mix almost any color with two or more of the four basic shades: light oak (tan), walnut (brown), maple (yellow-orange), and mahogany (red). Most manufacturers provide mixing proportions for various effects.

To dull any color, add a drop or two of black. Mix small amounts of stain at first; then, starting full-strength and thinning the stain gradually with the proper solvent, test the stain on scrap wood until you have the right color. Keep track of the proportions so you'll be able to duplicate the mixture. When you like the color, test it again on a hidden part of the piece of furniture. If the piece is made of two or more woods, you may have to mix stain separately for each wood, but this is often not necessary.

When you're satisfied with the stain color, mix enough stain to treat the entire piece of furniture. Do not mix brands or types of stain, and do not change brands or types in the middle of the job. It's better to have stain left over than to run out of stain with one table leg or chair arm to go.

Whatever stain you're using, it's best to go carefully. If you're not sure the color is right, thin the stain to lighten it and apply several coats of stain until the color is as deep as you want it. Always test the stain in an inconspicuous spot, and stain the least conspicuous surfaces first. It may take longer this way to get the effect you want, but the only way to salvage a badly applied stain is to bleach it out and start over.

To prevent drip marks and uneven color, turn the piece of furniture so that the surface being stained is always horizontal. If you're working on a large piece and this isn't practical, start at the bottom and work up. Always work quickly, applying stain smoothly and evenly over the entire surface.

Pigmented or Penetrating Oil Stains

Apply pigmented or penetrating oil stain with a clean brush, flowing stain evenly along the grain of the wood. You can also use a clean cloth or sponge to apply penetrating stain. Let pigmented oil stain set for about 10 to 15 minutes, until the surface of the stain starts to turn dull, then firmly wipe off the excess stain with a clean cloth dampened with stain.

Penetrating oil stains work more quickly than pigmented ones. Wipe off the excess immediately for a light color, or let it set as long as 15 to 20 minutes for a darker color.

Oil stain can be modified to some extent if you don't like the effect. If the wood is too dark, soak a clean cloth in turpentine or mineral spirits and rub the wood firmly and evenly along the grain. This will lighten the stain but not remove it. If part of the grain is too dark, wrap a cloth around your index finger, dip it into turpentine or mineral spirits, and lightly rub the grain you want lightened. If part of the grain is too light, use an artists' brush to carefully apply more stain just to the grain.

Let the completed stain dry for about 24 hours. If the color isn't dark enough, repeat the staining procedure.

Water-base Stains

Water-base stains should be used on clean, bare wood or on new wood. Apply stain with a new brush, flowing it on quickly and evenly along the grain of the wood. Use long, smooth strokes. Try not to overlap your strokes; a double layer of stain will dry twice as dark as a single one. It's better to use several thinned coats of stain than one dark one to minimize brush overlap marks.

Water-base stain can be adjusted if you're working on relatively small surfaces. To apply water-base stain by this method, flow it onto the surface liberally; then wipe off the excess, stroking along the grain with a clean cloth. The intensity of the color is determined by the length of time the excess is left on the wood; wipe immediately for a light color or let the stain set for a darker shade. Let the completed stain dry for about 24 hours. If the color isn't dark enough, repeat the staining procedure.

Oil stain allows some leeway for color adjustment. If part of the grain is too light, use an artists' brush to apply more stain to the lighter areas.

NGR Stains

NGR stain, either alcohol- or spirit-base, is applied like water-base stain, but this type of stain dries so quickly that it can be hard to apply. Use a medium-size new brush to apply NGR stain, flowing it on quickly and evenly along the grain of the wood. Make long, smooth, light strokes, and try not to overlap the strokes. Brush overlap marks will dry twice as dark as the rest of the stain.

To minimize overlap marks, it's better to use several thinned coats of stain than one dark one.

NGR stains cannot be adjusted and should not be applied in very humid weather. An unsatisfactory stain must be bleached out. Let the stain dry completely before finishing the wood — about half an hour for alcohol-base stain and about one hour for methanol- or other spirit-base stain.

Lightening

Dark wood can be lightened with stain for an interesting light-dark effect. Lightening is not recommended for fine woods because it covers the natural color and grain of the wood; as a last resort, though, it can be effective. Lightening works best on open-grained wood; the effect of a lighter color is produced because the grain is filled with a light or white pigment. The lightening agent is sometimes thinned white oil-base paint, but more often it is pigmented oil stain.

Apply the oil stain as above, and let it set to achieve the desired effect. Wipe off excess stain, and let the stained wood dry completely.

Post-Stain Treatment

Any stain, even an oil-base stain, may raise the grain of the wood slightly. If necessary, remove this slight roughness when the stain is completely dry, but smooth the wood very carefully to avoid removing the stain. To smooth wood treated with oil-base stain, rub it gently with No. 000 or 0000 steel wool. To smooth wood treated with water-base or NGR stain, sand it very lightly with fine-grit sandpaper. Remove all sanding debris with a tack cloth. Sanding may remove water-base stain in spots; if the surface is uneven in color, you may have to apply another coat of stain.

To complete your post-stain treatment, you will have to apply a coat of sealer.

How to Choose a Furniture Finish

Putting the finish on furniture is the final payoff for all the hours you've spent removing the old finish, making repairs, sanding, staining, and smoothing. Some might consider the finishing step as routine, others might think it's creative. Either way, it is usually easy to do, if you use the right materials, take your time, and exercise a little patience.

In the next few pages, we'll discuss how to pick the best finish for your furniture wood. We'll also review some application techniques, including preparation work and drying tips, so whatever finish you choose should provide a long-lasting look.

Types of Finish

Furniture finishes can be classified into several basic types: varnish, penetrating resin, shellac, lacquer, wax, and oil. All these finishes are designed to protect the wood and to bring out its natural beauty, and all of them can be assessed in terms of how well they accomplish these objectives. Consequently, choosing a finish comes down to two essential factors: How do you want the wood to look? How durable do you want the finished surface to be?

Of the six basic finishes, all can be beautiful, but when it comes to durability, two types outperform all the others: varnish and penetrating resin. Varnish, the most durable of all finishes, is available in high-gloss, satin, and flat forms for whatever surface shine you want. Applying varnish can be difficult, but the results are worth the work. Penetrating resin sinks into the wood to give it a natural look and feel; it is easy to apply and durable. The other furniture finishes do have their advantages.

Oil, for instance, produces a very natural finish. Shellac dries fast and is easy to use. But for most refinishing, varnish or penetrating resin is probably the best choice.

Whatever finish you choose, it's important to know exactly what you're working with. Some finishes can be mixed and some cannot. Each finish has its own individual application techniques; each finish requires different tools and materials. Before you buy and apply a finish, always read the ingredient and application information on the container. And always follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations.

The one requirement common to all finishes is a dust-free environment during application. Providing this environment isn't easy, but it can be done. Consider using a finish that dries with a matte or flat surface; this type of finish gives you the opportunity to remove dirt and lint with rubbing abrasives.

In most cases, how a piece of furniture stands up to wear is as important as how it looks. Durability is a primary consideration in choosing a finish. The most durable finishes, varnish and penetrating resin, are thus the two basic finishes for refinishing. Varnish is the more protective of the two because it is a surface coat; damage to the varnish does not always extend to the wood. Penetrating resin hardens in the wood itself. Although it doesn't protect the surface from damage as effectively as varnish, it may stand up to heavy use better because it's easy to reapply and doesn't chip or craze.

If varnish is your choice, check the next section on how to work with this durable, slow-drying finish.