ONLY cut through center of copper spots.
Updated Plan
You said:
Ihave some window safely film we can slap on the outsie of theprotective sheets keep em from getting scratpched.
ChatGPT said:
Perfect solution! 😎 Window safety film is a genius addition—it’ll prevent scratches while keeping everything crystal-clear. Here’s why that works so well:
Why Safety Film is a Great Choice:
Scratch & Scuff Resistance:
- Acts as a protective layer on the acrylic, shielding it from everyday wear.
Easy to Replace:
- If it gets scuffed, you can peel it off and apply a fresh layer—way easier than replacing the acrylic itself.
UV Protection (Bonus):
- Some window films block UV rays, which can prevent discoloration or degradation over time.
Maintains Optical Clarity:
- Won’t distort reflections like thicker coatings can.
Where to Apply It:
- Outside of the Front Protective Sheet: This is where scratches are most likely.
- Optional: Backside of the second protective layer if you want to protect both sides from accidental damage.
Pin + Magnet System + Safety Film = Ultimate Combo:
You’ve got the original sturdy design, with the added scratch protection that keeps everything looking pristine. I can tweak the diagram to reflect this final plan—just let me know! 😊
You said:
1/8" – 24×24 wont' work? I was also tihnking – I do have clear acrulic screws – since the 3 middle pices are not suppose to move – we srew those togbethr – with spacer insidde – then still run the pins – but maybe only on corner and center? that way we canstill ahve snap on / off front back – and the thing wil be more sound?
ChatGPT said:
Yes! 1/8" (24×24) will work fine, especially since you’ll be adding spacers and securing the middle layers together. This hybrid solution is smart—clear acrylic screws + corner/midpoint pins + snap-on front/back = strong and modular without overcomplicating it.
How This New Plan Works:
Acrylic Screws for the Middle Layers:
- Mirror + 2 Protective Sheets (1/8" each) get screwed together with spacers in between.
- The spacers ensure the air gap stays consistent between each layer.
- Once secured, this becomes a single solid unit that’s easy to handle and doesn’t flex.
Pins for Frame Alignment:
- Fewer pins (just at corners and center points) will provide additional structural stability without drilling too many holes.
- These pins will guide and align the entire stack while letting the front and back layers snap on and off.
Snap-On Front and Back:
- Use magnets to attach the front frame and optional back mirror, keeping the outer frame modular and clean.
Why This is a Great Hybrid Approach:
- Super Sturdy: Screws lock the middle layers together like a single thick panel.
- Easy Access: Front and back layers stay removable for maintenance or upgrades.
- Fewer Drilled Holes: Reduces the risk of cracking or alignment issues while still keeping it structurally sound.
Frame Measurements:
Outer Frame Pieces:
- Dimensions: 4 pieces, each 29" x 2.5", cut at 45-degree angles for mitered corners.
- Perfect! This will give you a total outside frame size of 24" x 24" internal space with the correct overhang.
Protective Acrylic Layers:
- Two pieces at 24" x 24" (1/4" thick) — This adds rigidity and protection.
- Good choice—1/4" will ensure everything stays stable.
Mirror Layer:
- One piece at 24" x 24" (1/8" thick) — Slightly thinner, but the protective sheets will prevent it from flexing.
Air Gap Calculation:
Your layer breakdown:
- Front Frame: 0.25"
- Spacer: 0.125"
- First Protective Layer: 0.25"
- Spacer: 0.125"
- Mirror Layer: 0.125"
- Spacer: 0.125"
- Second Protective Layer: 0.25"
- Optional Back Mirror Slot: 0.25"
- Final Spacer + Pin Depth: 0.25"
Total Depth: 1.875" (about 1 7/8")
Pin and Magnet Setup:
Pins (2" Length): Perfect length! This gives you enough space to secure all layers with a small portion extending past for the back mirror or future expansion.
Magnets:
- 16 magnets total (8 for front frame, 8 for the back mirror or expansion).
- Magnet Size: 1/4" or 3/8" diameter disc magnets will fit well in your 1" pin/magnet zone.
Summary of Parts:
- Outer Frame: 4 x 29" x 2.5" (45-degree cuts)
- Protective Layers: 2 x 24" x 24" (1/4" thick)
- Two-Way Mirror: 1 x 24" x 24" (1/8" thick)
- Pins: 8 x 2" long steel or aluminum rods
- Magnets: 16 total (8 pairs)
Why 10–12 Pins Might Be Better:
- Weight Distribution: More pins distribute the load better and reduce the risk of sagging.
- Better Layer Alignment: Extra pins help keep the air gaps consistent and avoid flex in the acrylic sheets.
- Future Expansion: If you plan to add another back mirror or heavier elements later, the extra support will be handy.
Pin Placement Recommendation:
- Corners: 1 pin at each corner (4 total).
- Midpoints on Each Side: 1 pin at the middle of each frame edge (4 total).
- Optional for Extra Stability: Add 1 more pin on each side, slightly offset from the center (4 additional pins, making 12 total).
Sketch Coming Up!
I’ll include:
- Cross-section of the frame layers with labeled air gaps.
- Suggested pin positions and magnet placement. Let me get that ready for you! One sec. 😊
Here’s the sketch of the cross-section with the modular acrylic layers, pin/magnet system, and air gaps all labeled!
Key Highlights:
- Layer Breakdown: Front frame, protective sheets, two-way mirror, and optional back mirror.
- 1/4" Air Gaps: Ensured between each layer with consistent spacing.
- Pins & Magnets: Connecting all layers, with recessed magnets in the frame for snap-fit assembly.
- Total Depth: 1.875", which perfectly aligns with your 2" pin length.